This spring, two of my closest girlfriends and I spent four wonderful, whirlwind days in Istanbul. I’ve always been curious about Turkey, and Istanbul felt like the obvious place for my first visit. With kids and careers, weeklong girls' trips aren’t possible for my group of middle-aged mom friends, but that doesn’t stop us from seeing the world! From Bogotá to Lisbon, Atlanta to Puerto Rico, we’ve made the most of Thursday-to-Monday trips over the years, and while Istanbul was our farthest destination yet for a 96-hour getaway, I’d totally recommend it.
We spent four magical days in Istanbul, splitting our time between two iconic Four Seasons properties. We began with two nights in Sultanahmet, exploring the city's ancient core, and then we spent our final two nights along Bosphorus, soaking in waterfront views in the evenings and running around the rest of the city by day! In just three full days four touring, we managed to experience everything from hammams, historic mosques, charming backstreets, to an unforgettable boat ride between continents.
Where to Stay in Istanbul
Four Seasons Sultanahmet is set in a beautifully restored neoclassical building (formerly a prison!) and places you steps from the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace (more on these in a minute!). It has an elegant courtyard, a stunning rooftop bar, and the room was
Four Seasons Hotel at the Bosphorus feels like a resort, but it's tucked inside the city. Set right on the water in a 19th-century Ottoman palace--you stare right into the strait that separates Europe from Asia. This is also where you'll find a five-star spa and spacious, modern rooms.
Pro tip: Splitting your stay between these two properties offers the best of both worlds—Istanbul’s ancient past and its contemporary, cosmopolitan vibe. While we preferred the charm of the room at Sultanahmet, both of these hotels offered the attention to detail that can kind of can only be found at a Four Seasons.
Splendid Palas gets high marks for more affordable hotel in Istanbul, so I would check this one out if I were to travel there again.
Where to Eat in Istanbul
We had a bunch of really delicious food in Istanbul (it was easy as a pescetarian, if that applies to you!). Here were some especially yummy meals:
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Four Seasons Bosphorus Sunday Brunch – Even if you’re not staying there, go for the brunch. It’s lavish and so much fun, and it includes Turkish and international foods (plus incredible coffee, of course).
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Fish sandwiches at the dock – This was perhaps the best thing I ate the entire time I was in Istanbul, and it cost like two bucks. You can grab one from a street-side vendor before or after a boat ride.
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Rooftop terrace at Four Seasons Sultanahmet – Come for the view, stay for the pickled okra and other snacks plus your obligatory sip of Raki at sunset (whether or not you actually like Raki--turns out I don't).
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Dinner at Aheste - This chic, modern meze restaurant in Beyoğlu was one of our favorite meals of the trip. The pre-fixe featured Turkish classics with a cozy candlelit vibe, and they had a vegetarian version of their menu that was perfect for me.
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Turkish tea—everywhere -- From hotel lobbies to market stalls, Turkish tea (çay) is offered constantly at no charge. It's a strong black tea served in small tulip-shaped glasses, and I had about twenty cups a day!
What to Do in Istanbul
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Explore the Old City with a guide – The three of us went to high school together, and we joked that we missed that part of history class! Thankfully, we toured with Fettah (WhatsApp +90 541 975 9565), who brought Sultanahmet’s rich history to life. We visited Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace,
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Hamam at Kılıç Ali Paşa – One of Istanbul’s most famous Turkish baths, designed by the great architect Sinan. A bubble scrub here is intense but worth it—I will never forget seeing my friends topless being manhandled and washed like infants, lolol. There may be nicer Hamams, but this one felt really authetic.
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Stroll through Balat – This colorful neighborhood contains crooked streets, rainbow-painted homes, vintage shops, and a slower pace than the rest of the city. Note that the restaurants here don't serve alcohol.
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Take a private boat ride on the Bosphorus – There’s no better way to appreciate the city’s scale and setting. Floating between continents at sunset is pure Istanbul magic. The skyline full of mosques was truly like nowhere else I've been in the world.
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Skip the Grand Bazaar—go to the Spice Bazaar instead: While the Grand Bazaar is massive and iconic, we found the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) to be more enjoyable: less chaotic, more and easier to navigate, and selling all the same stuff. I went crazy buying tea, nuts, and Turkish Delight (which turns out my kids hate).
Final Thoughts on Our Four Days in Istanbul
Brooke, Steph, and I have been reminiscing about this trip since we got back--it might have been the best one yet. Whether you’re drawn to Istanbul for its ancient mosques, buzzing bazaars, or breathtaking waterfront views, this city delivers beauty and depth unlike anything we've experienced before. Four nights there offered us enough time to fall in love, and we left with full hearts and tired feet! If you’re dreaming of a quick but unforgettable vacation, let this be your sign: book the trip to Istanbul.
Stay sane,