This spring, two of my closest girlfriends and I spent four wonderful, whirlwind days in Istanbul. I’ve always been curious about Turkey, and Istanbul felt like the obvious place for my first visit. With kids and careers, weeklong girls' trips aren’t possible for my group of middle-aged mom friends, but that doesn’t stop us from seeing the world! From Bogotá to Lisbon, we’ve made the most of Thursday-to-Monday trips over the years, and while Istanbul was our farthest destination yet for a 96-hour getaway, I’d totally recommend it.
We spent four magical days in Istanbul, splitting our time between two iconic Four Seasons properties. We began with two nights in Sultanahmet, exploring the city's ancient core, and then we spent our final two nights along Bosphorus, soaking in waterfront views in the evenings and running around the rest of the city by day! With just three full days for touring, we nevertheless managed to experience an authentic hammam, tour historic mosques, explore charming backstreets, and even take an unforgettable boat ride between continents.
Where to Stay in Istanbul
Four Seasons Sultanahmet is set in a beautifully restored neoclassical building (formerly a prison!) and places you steps from the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace (more on these in a minute!). It has an elegant courtyard, a stunning rooftop bar, and the room was really unique while still embodying classic five-star luxury.
Four Seasons Hotel at the Bosphorus feels like a resort, but it's tucked inside the city. Set right on the water in a 19th-century Ottoman palace, you can stare right into the strait that separates Europe from Asia while sitting by the pool or having dinner outside at one of several onsite restaurants.
Pro tip: Splitting your stay between these two properties offers the best of both worlds—Istanbul’s ancient past and its contemporary, cosmopolitan vibe. While we preferred the charm of our room at Sultanahmet, both of these hotels offered the attention to detail that I'd argue can only be found at a Four Seasons hotel.
Splendid Palas gets high marks for more affordable hotel in Istanbul, so I would check this one out if I were to travel there again.
How CUTE is the sitting area of our room at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet?
Our room at the Four Seasons Bosphorus was both beautiful and spacious.
If you like a nice spa and gym, opt for the Four Seasons Bosphorus.
The courtyard area of the Four Seasons Sultanahmet is super charming (above). But the grounds at the Four Seasons Bosphorus are also stunning (below)!
Where to Eat in Istanbul
We had so much delicious food in Istanbul (it was easy as a pescatarian, if that applies to you!). Here were some especially yummy meals:
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Four Seasons Bosphorus Sunday Brunch – Even if you’re not staying there, go for the brunch. It’s lavish and so much fun, and it includes Turkish and international foods (plus incredible coffee, of course).
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Fish sandwiches at the dock – This was perhaps the best thing I ate the entire time I was in Istanbul, and it cost like two bucks. You can grab one from a street-side vendor before or after a boat ride.
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Rooftop terrace at Four Seasons Sultanahmet – Come for the view, stay for the pickled okra and other snacks plus your obligatory sip of Raki at sunset (whether or not you actually like Raki--turns out I don't).
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Dinner at Aheste - This modern meze restaurant in Beyoğlu was one of our favorite meals of the trip. The pre-fixe featured Turkish classics with a cozy candlelit vibe, and they had a vegetarian version of their menu that was perfect for me.
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Turkish tea—everywhere - From hotel lobbies to market stalls, Turkish tea (çay) is offered constantly at no charge. It's a strong black tea served in small tulip-shaped glasses, and I had about twenty cups a day!
What to Do in Istanbul
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Explore the Old City with a guide – Brooke, Steph, and I went to high school together, and we joked that we must have missed the part of history class that taught us about Istanbul! Thankfully, we toured with an INCREDIBLE guide named Fettah, who truly brought Sultanahmet’s rich history to life for us. We visited the Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace, and Hagia Sophia--don't miss any of them! You can reach Fettah to arrange a custom tour at his WhatsApp: +90 541 975 9565. Tell him hello for me!
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Hammam at Kılıç Ali Paşa – One of Istanbul’s most famous Turkish baths, designed by the great architect Sinan. A bubble scrub here is intense but worth it—I will never forget seeing my topless friends being manhandled and washed like infants, let me tell ya. There may be fancier hammams, but this one felt really authentic.
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Stroll through Balat – This colorful neighborhood contains crooked streets, rainbow-painted homes, vintage shops, and a slower pace than the rest of the city. Note that the restaurants here don't serve alcohol.
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Take a private boat ride on the Bosphorus – There’s no better way to appreciate the city’s scale and setting. Floating between continents at sunset is pure Istanbul magic. The skyline full of mosques was truly like nowhere else I've been in the world.
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Skip the Grand Bazaar—go to the Spice Bazaar instead – While the Grand Bazaar is massive and iconic, we found the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) to be more enjoyable: less chaotic, easier to navigate, and selling all the same stuff. I went crazy buying tea, nuts, and Turkish Delight (which turns out my kids hate).
Final Thoughts on Our Four Days in Istanbul
Brooke, Steph, and I have been reminiscing about this trip since we got back--it might have been the best one we've ever taken. Whether you’re drawn to Istanbul for its ancient mosques, buzzing bazaars, or breathtaking waterfront views, this city delivers beauty and depth unlike anything we've experienced before. Four nights there offered us enough time to fall in love, and we left with full hearts and tired feet! If you’re dreaming of a quick but unforgettable vacation, let this be your sign: book a trip to Istanbul.
Stay sane,
