How to Choose Non-Toxic Makeup
The clean beauty market is the most heavily greenwashed category in consumer products. Here’s what the research actually shows about the most common concerns:
PFAS in Makeup: A Serious and Underreported Problem
PFAS (“forever chemicals”) have been found in a wide range of cosmetics in independent testing — including foundation, mascara, lip products, and concealer. They’re used to create smooth application, long wear, and water resistance, and they are not required to be listed on labels. A 2021 study in Environmental Science & Technology Letters found PFAS in 52% of foundations and eye products tested, with some of the highest concentrations in products marketed as “long-lasting” or “waterproof.” PFAS accumulate in the body, disrupt hormones, and are associated with thyroid disease, immune effects, and increased cancer risk. The only way to avoid them is to choose brands that provide independent third-party testing confirming PFAS-free status — not just ingredient label review, since PFAS aren’t always individually listed.
What’s in Conventional Mascara
Mascara is one of the most problematic conventional makeup products because it’s applied directly adjacent to one of the most absorptive mucous membranes in the body — the eye. Common concerning ingredients in conventional mascara include carbon black (a carcinogenic pigment classified as a possible human carcinogen by IARC), parabens as preservatives, synthetic fragrance, PFAS in waterproof formulas, and aluminum powder in some volumizing formulas. The preservative challenge is real: mascara is a high-risk product for bacterial contamination given repeated exposure to the eye area, which is why clean mascara formulas need effective, non-toxic preservatives — phenoxyethanol at low concentrations, vitamin E, and rosemary extract are among the more defensible options. Our safe mascara guide covers the best non-toxic mascaras we’ve tested.
The Fragrance Problem in Cosmetics
Synthetic fragrance is the single most common hidden hazard in conventional cosmetics. A single “fragrance” or “parfum” listing can represent dozens of undisclosed chemicals — including phthalates used as fixatives, benzene derivatives, musks that accumulate in body tissue, and VOCs that contribute to indoor air pollution. Cosmetic fragrance is exempt from full disclosure under U.S. law, making it the easiest way for brands to hide problematic ingredients. “Natural fragrance” is only marginally better — it’s still largely unregulated and can include sensitizing compounds. For people with reactive skin, autoimmune conditions, or hormone concerns, fragrance-free is the safest choice.
Talc and Heavy Metals in Makeup
Talc is a common filler in powder makeup, eyeshadow, and blush — and naturally occurring talc is frequently contaminated with asbestos, a known carcinogen, since the two minerals form in proximity geologically. The FDA has found asbestos in talc-containing cosmetics in multiple rounds of testing, including in children’s products. We require asbestos-free certification for any talc-containing products we carry, and prefer talc-free formulas where equivalent performance is achievable. Heavy metal colorants — lead, arsenic, mercury, cadmium — are found as contaminants in some conventional color cosmetics, particularly lip products and eyeshadow. They’re not intentionally added but present in the raw pigment materials. Third-party testing for heavy metals is an important quality signal for any brand we evaluate.