The Best Natural Retinol Serum for Anti-Aging Skincare
Written by:
Maia James
Looking for a different guide? Browse them all HERE.
With research provided by Michael Hopkins, PhD
Retinoids are among the most well-researched anti-aging ingredients in skincare. Derived from vitamin A, retinoids work by promoting cell turnover, boosting collagen production, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. But with so many forms of retinoids on the market, how do you find the best natural retinol serum for your skin?
Our mission at Gimme isn’t just about helping you avoid products that contain ingredients known to be endocrine disruptors or carcinogens. We are also committed to finding products that deliver actual results, especially when it comes to anti-aging skincare.
That’s why, in our quest to help you (and me!) identify the best natural retinol serums, we once again called upon Dr. Hopkins. What follows is the results of his (and my!) deep dive into the science behind retinol–as well as which brands are Good Stuff when it comes to both safety AND effectiveness.
Let’s get to it.
Types of Retinoids
Retinoids encompass all forms of vitamin A, including both natural and synthetic derivatives. These compounds include retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid, which are naturally occurring, as well as synthetic retinoids like adapalene and tazarotene. Each form of retinoid differs in potency, effectiveness, and potential for irritation. Let’s go through them one by one.
Since we set out to identify the best natural retinol serums, we will begin with the natural retinoids.
1. Retinol
Retinol is the most common over-the-counter form of vitamin A. Once applied to the skin, retinol is converted into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, which is the active form that impacts skin cells. Retinol is a gentle yet effective option for improving fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin texture. Because retinol is less potent than retinoic acid, it’s often better suited for people with sensitive skin or those new to retinoid use.
2. Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde is one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol is. This means it’s more potent, stable, and effective, but still available without a prescription. We could only find one brand of retinaldehyde-based serum that we can call Good Stuff based on our other criteria for safety.
3. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, is the most potent form of vitamin A. It doesn’t need to be converted by the skin and works directly to speed up cell turnover and increase collagen production. This form is available by prescription only and is usually recommended for people with more significant skin concerns.
4. Synthetic Retinoids
In addition to the natural forms of retinoids covered above, there are several forms of synthetic retinoids, the most common of which are adapalene and tazarotene. Synthetic retinoids are are chemically modified to offer increased stability and potency, and are highly effective for treating skin issues like acne. We did not find any brands that use synthetic retinoids that we are able to recommend.
Cheat Sheet: What Brand of Retinol is Most Effective?
We reviewed 19 brands of retinol to help you find the best natural retinol serum. Here’s a cheat sheet of the four that we think are both the safest and most effective.
- Derma-E Retinol Concentrated Serum / 2. The Ordinary Retinol in 1% Squalene Retinol Serum / 3. Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Serum / 4. Marie Veronique Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion (Top Pick!)
Most Retinoids Are Non-Toxic
You may have heard that retinol is a hormone disruptor and may be carcinogenic. Here’s what you need to know about this.
- Studies have shown that one form of retinoid, retinyl palmitate, can increase tumor formation on hairless mice exposed to UV light.
- As the weakest type of retinoid, retinyl palmitate is not one that we recommended because it’s not strong enough to make a significant difference in skin appearance. And the potential carcinogenic properties make this one definite Bad Stuff.
- These studies underscore the fact that topical retinoids can increase light sensitivity and lead to sun damage.
- The studies are specific to only retinyl palmitate. In contrast, there is a much larger body of research demonstrating the efficacy of retinoids in treating and preventing tumor formation and skin cancers.
- Though generally safe, retinoids can cause skin irritation, especially when first introduced. Overuse can lead to dryness and peeling, and prolonged sun exposure after use can result in sunburns. Retinoids may also be unsafe for pregnant or breastfeeding women and may even cause birth defects.
Bottom line: It’s best to avoid topical retinyl palmitate products. We also recommend avoiding vitamin A supplements containing these retinol ester derivatives. You should skip all retinoid products if you’re pregnant.
Problematic Ingredients in Retinol Creams
The problematic ingredients to avoid when choosing a retinoid product will be familiar to anyone who regularly reads our website. The best natural retinol serum brands will not contain:
- Phthalates or undisclosed synthetic fragrances.
- Certain preservatives, including parabens and other formaldehyde-releasers.
- Petrochemical-derivatives, such as PEGs, petrolatum, and mineral oil.
There are also a handful of ingredients that we typically don’t like–especially in products for kids–but which we think are acceptable in anti-aging products where performance is so important. These include:
- BHT
- Dimethicone
- Phenoxyethanol
- EDTA
Bottom line: There are some ingredients that we find unacceptable in retinoid products. A second group of not-so-great ingredients are what Dr. Hopkins considers “relatively benign and also ubiquitous” that you may find even in products we are recommending.
The Best Natural Retinol Serums Criteria
When searching for the best natural retinol serums, here’s what to keep in mind:
- Stability. When you spend (sometimes considerable!) money on a retinol serum, you want to make sure it’s going to actually work. I was surprised to learn that retinol, the most common retinoid in skincare products, is actually the least stable form. Retinoic acid and synthetic retinoids tend to be the most stable. We prioritized products that come in opaque containers to protect the retinoid from light degradation.
- Potency/Potential to Irritate. For natural retinoids, the more potent the compound, the more likely it is to irritate the skin. From least to most potent (and thus irritating), the general order is Retinol → Retinaldehyde → Synthetic Retinoids → Retinoic Acid. Keep in mind that retinoic acid is generally available only by prescription.
- Clean Formulation. We looked for serums that avoid potentially harmful additives mentioned above–like parabens, sulfates, and synthetic fragrances.
- Encapsulation. The best natural retinol serums use microencapsulation technology to improve the stability and effectiveness of the retinoid. This technology also helps reduce irritation. But the encapsulation shell can either be be made of a synthetic polymer/microplastic or a safe, naturally biodegradable organic material like chitosan, alginate, or gelatin. No brand that uses a polymer to encapsulate made our Best, Good, or Okay Stuff lists.
Retinol Alternatives
While retinol is a powerful anti-aging ingredient, some people prefer alternatives that are gentler on the skin. This guide is about identifying the best natural retinol serum brands, so we decided not to include retinol-alternative brands in our review. For the purposes of this report, we’re focused on evaluating products that incorporate some amount of true retinoid. However, there are a few notes on retinol alternatives for those of those interested in such a product:
- The most well-known, and probably the most effective, retinol alternative is bakuchiol. Derived from the Babchi plant, bakuchiol is a plant-based compound that has similar effects to retinol, promoting collagen production and protecting against oxidative stress.
- Unlike retinol, bakuchiol doesn’t increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and is less likely to cause irritation.
- While it might deliver similar results, bakuchiol is not not related to vitamin A in terms of chemical structure and doesn’t bind to the same receptors as retinol does.
- The biggest drawback to botanical alternatives versus retinol is that you may not see the same anti-aging effects and they typically aren’t quantified in a precise concentration the way that retinoid products are.
Here are some retinol-alternative products that meet our criteria for Good Stuff:
- Bluh Alchemy
- Herbivore Botanicals
- Kora
- Toups & Co. Reparative Serum (Use code GIMME10 for 10% off.)
In terms of the brands that contain actual retinoids, or at least that claim to (!), here is how those stack up.
Best Stuff: Best Natural Retinol Serums
Marie Veronique Multi Retinol Night Emulsion
- Combines microencapsulated retinol (0.3%) with gentler botanical retinoic compounds.
- One of the easiest products to incorporate into your existing skincare routine without risk of irritation.
- Cleanest ingredient list of any retinol product we investigated.
- Our top pick for the best natural retinol serum.
Cost per ounce: $135
Ingredients: Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Flower Water, Glycerin, Aqua, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Seed Oil, Propanediol, Isododecane, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Lecithin, Shea Butter Glycerides, Ferulic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol (Mixed), Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Saccharomyces/Black Tea Ferment, Laminaria Digitata (Algae) Extract, Retinol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Beta-Glucan, Populus Tremuloides (Aspen) Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium PCA, Glucosamine HCl, Ethyl Ferulate, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Cone Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Ubiquinone, Sodium Salicylate, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Flower Oil, Resveratrol, Ceramide NP, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizomes Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus (Cistus) Oil, Myrtus Communis (Green Myrtle) Oil, Boswellia Carteri (Frankincense) Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil, Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract, Superoxide Dismutase, Soybean Peroxidase, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Glyceryl Caprylate
Good Stuff: Good Enough Retinols
Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum
- This is a blend of retinol plus botanic alternatives.
- Company reps didn’t provide Dr. Hopkins with the exact concentration of retinol.
- The ingredient list is very clean, with only BHT and some relatively benign preservatives to ding it.
Cost per ounce: $94
Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Squalane, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Aniba Rosodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Abies Sibirica Oil, Tocopherol, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, Ceramide NP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, 1,2- Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hydroxystearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool.
Derma-E Retinol Concentrated Serum
- Contains both retinol and bakuchiol.
- We don’t love the dropper as it introduces air into the bottle which can make the actives less stable.
- Uses a biodegradeable phospholipid miscroencapsulation process.
Cost per ounce: $20
Ingredients: Purified Water, Glycerin, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Astaxanthin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Aspalathus Linearius Extract, Allantoin, Sodium PCA, Phospholipids, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carbomer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Potassium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6
- The only retinaldehyde product we found to recommend.
- Contains 0.06% concentration.
- This serum is microencapsulated using cyclodextrin from potato starch.
- With BHT, titanium dioxide, disodium EDTA, and phenoxyethanol, it does contain almost all of the ingredients we’ve deemed “not ideal.”
Cost per ounce: $79
Ingredients: Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cyclodextrin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Retinal, Alumina, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Sodium Polyaspartate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, BHT, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract, Coumarin, Red 4, Titanium Dioxide/CI 77891.
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalene
- We couldn’t include the Ordinary on our Best Stuff list because it contains BHT.
- Since it is retinol-based and doesn’t employ microencapsulation, you’ll need to be more careful about light and heat exposure.
- The dropper is not our favorite packaging as it can introduce air into the product and compromise the stability.
- This 1% retinol is excellent by all other measures and can be yours for a tiny fraction of the competitors’ price.
- This is Dr. Hopkins’ recommendation for best overall value.
Cost per ounce: $9.30
Ingredients: Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, BHT.
Shop all of the safest retinols in our Amazon shop.
Okay Stuff: Not Our Favorite Retinols
Eve Lom Radiance Repair Retinol Serum
- We thought this would be a Good Stuff product, but they didn’t respond to our inquiry about their microencapsulation formulation.
- They do not disclose the retinol concentration on the product label.
Cost per ounce: $185
Ingredients: AQUA (WATER), GLYCERETH-26, GLYCERIN, XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE, POLYSORBATE 20, POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6, PHENOXYETHANOL, ANHYDROXYLITOL, CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT, SODIUM CITRATE, LECITHIN, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, CITRIC ACID, PANICUM MILIACEUM (MILLET) SEED EXTRACT, XYLITOL, HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID, KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII EXTRACT, ALCOHOL, LACTIC ACID, RETINOL, AVENA SATIVA (OAT) KERNEL EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, DECYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM BENZOATE, POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE, TANNIC ACID, BIOFLAVONOIDS, CHLOROGENIC ACIDS, GLUCOSE, ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER OIL, POTASSIUM SORBATE, BHT, HYDROLYZED GARDENIA FLORIDA EXTRACT, MALTODEXTRIN, BHA, TOCOPHEROL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, CITRONELLOL, GERANIOL.
Juice Beauty Stem Cellular Anti-Wrinkle Booster Serum
- This is a blend of retinol plus botanical retinoic compounds and does not disclose the specific retinol concentration.
- It incorporates a primrose encapsulation for controlled release.
- While everything checks out as clean, without knowing the retinol concentration, we can’t assess how effective this might be, so we are leaving it in Okay Stuff for now.
Cost per ounce: $78
Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice*, glycerin†, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil*, coconut alkanes†, glyceryl stearate†, stearic acid†, pyrus malus (apple) juice*, vitis vinifera (grape) juice*, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil*, glyceryl stearate citrate†, cetyl alcohol†, stearyl alcohol†, caprylyl glycol†, oenothera biennis (evening primrose) leaf cell extract / [retinol/soybean]†, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter*, gossypium herbaceum (cotton) seed oil†, linum usitatissimum (linseed) oil†, bidens pilosa extract†, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter†, sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid)†, ubiquinone (CoQ 10), tocopherol (Vitamin E)†, panthenol (Vitamin B5), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (Vitamin C), coco-caprylate/caprate†, malus domestica (apple) fruit cell culture extract†, vitis vinifera (grape) fruit cell extract†, citrus limon (lemon) fruit extract†, camellia sinensis (green tea) extract*, acetyl hexapeptide-8, xanthan gum, mica, allantoin, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), ethylhexylglycerin, diheptyl succinate†, polyglyceryl-6 distearate†, capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer†, thioctic acid (alpha lipoic), litsea cubeba oil†, cinnamomum camphora linalooliferum oil†. Potential allergens: d-limonene†, linalool†, geraniol†
Paula’s Choice Retinols Serums
- Two products from their line are Okay Stuff. First the 1% Retinol Treatment, which incorporates a silicone emulsification process to create a controlled release and help reduce irritation from this high concentration formula. For the same price, there is a 0.3% Retinol & Bakuchiol product, providing a gentler formulation.
- Both of these products contain dimethicone, disodium EDTA and several PEGs, which pull them off the Good Stuff list but are not problematic enough to warrant a Bad Stuff designation.
Cost per ounce: $65
Ingredients: Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide NG, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
Bad Stuff: Retinol Creams to Avoid
Avene RetrinAl 0.1 Intensive Cream
- Use 0.1% retinaldehyde, which we like.
- The rest of the formula contains pretty much the full list of “not ideal” ingredients (BHT, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, and sodium hydroxide).
- The dealbreaker is the Red #33 artificial coloring.
Ingredients: AVÈNE THERMAL SPRING WATER, TRIETHYLHEXANOIN, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, CETEARETH-20, POLYMETHYL METHACRYLATE, CETEARETH-33, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, AMMONIUM ACRYLOL DIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, OENOTHERA BIENNIS (EVENING PRIMROSE) OIL, PHENOXYETHANOL, BENZOIC ACID, DISODIUM EDTA, RETINAL, TOCOPHERYL GLUCOSIDE, OLEOYL DIPEPTIDE-15, MICA, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SILICA, BHT, OLEOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-31, TOCOPHEROL, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARAMEL, RED 33.
Differin Gel
- Adapalene is known for its benefits when it comes to acne-prone skin
- We don’t mind that adapalene is a synthetic retinoid.
- Most adapalene products require a prescription, however this formulation does not, and is much more affordable.
- This is Bad Stuff because it contains parabens.
Ingredients: Active Ingredients: Adapalene (0.1%)(Retinoid). Purpose: Acne Treatment, Read Consumer Information Leaflet. Inactive Ingredients: Carbomer 940, Edetate Disodium, Methylparaben, Poloxamer 182, Propylene Glycol, Purified Water and Sodium Hydroxide, May Contain Hydrochloric Acid to Adjust pH.
La Roche-Posay Redermic R Anti-Aging Retinol Serum
- Contains unspecified fragrance/parfum.
- No retinol concentration is indicated.
Ingredients: AQUA / WATER • ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE • GLYCERIN • OCTYLDODECANOL • PROPYLENE GLYCOL • PENTYLENE GLYCOL • ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER • CETEARYL ALCOHOL • GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL • TRIETHANOLAMINE • ISOHEXADECANE • SODIUM HYALURONATE • RETINOL • RETINYL LINOLEATE • ADENOSINE • CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID • CAPRYLYL GLYCOL • POLYSORBATE 80 • PHENOXYETHANOL • PARFUM / FRAGRANCE.
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
- Contains Red #4 and synthetic fragrance.
Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isopropyl Palmitate, C14-22 Alcohols, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Swertia Chirata Extract, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Silica, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Polysorbate 20, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Red 4 (CI 14700), Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Fragrance (Parfum) Formulated Without: Parabens, Sulfates, Phthalates, Gluten, Animal-Derived Ingredients, Mineral Oil, Formaldehyde, Oxybenzone, Petrolatum/Petroleum
Sneaky Stuff: Retinol Brands that Aren’t Transparent
Bluh Alchemy Botanic Retinol
- This is a safe formulation, but it is falsely advertised as a retinol when it contains no retinol.
- Transparency is one of Gimme’s most important values, and we never recommend brands where the label’s claims don’t match the actual ingredients.
Ingredients: *Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, *Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Hydrosol, *Brachychiton Acerifolius (Flame Tree) Cell Extract, **Kunzea Pomifera (Emu Apple) Cell Extract, *Durvillea Potatorum (Tasmanium Kelp) Cell Extract, *Tamarindus Indica (Tamarind) Seed Cell Extract, Bakuchiol, Sclerotium Gum (Mushroom), Leuconostoc (Radish Root) Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus and Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Glycerin & Glycosphingolipid (Vegetable Ceramides), Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, **Cacay Nut Oil, Lupine Amino Acids, Water & Fiscus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Selaginella Lepidophylla (Resurrection) Plant, Niacinimide (B3) Ecocert Propanediol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10, *Tanacetum Annuum (Blue Tansy) Oil, Jasminum Grandiflorum (Jasmine) Flower Oil, *Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, *Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Oil, *Daucus Carota (Carrot) eed Oil, *Rosmarinus Officinalis CO2 Extract, Tocotrienol (Non-Gmo).
Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol
- We hoped to include this under Good Stuff when we saw its relatively clean and power-packed ingredient list.
- The company reps would not confirm the specific microencapsulation compounds, and also declined to share the specific concentration of encapsulated retinol in their formula. We will be happy to move Glow Recipe to a different category if we are able to obtain these details.
Ingredients: Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, C9-12 Alkane, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract, Squalane, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylresorcinol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, PEI-10, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Chloride, Fructan, Maltodextrin, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Curcumin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Arginine, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Kaolin, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Malachite Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polyisobutene, PVP, C13-15 Alkane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Nu Skin ageLOC Tru Face Peptide Retinol Complex
- Does not contain the worst offenders like fragrance or parabens.
- However, it does contain pretty much everything else we want to avoid where possible: PEG 40 stearate and PEG 7, dimethicone, disodium EDTA, and others.
- This one is on the borderline of being Okay Stuff, but there are better options.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycereth-26, Dimethicone, Jojoba Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Oligopeptide-1, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Schizandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Bisabolol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Glycerin, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol, Adenosine, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysilicone-11, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Dimethiconol, Decyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide.
True Botanicals Phyto-Retinol Vitamin A Booster
- This is a safe formulation, but it is falsely advertised as a retinol when it contains no retinol.
- Transparency is one of Gimme’s most important values, and we never recommend brands where the label’s claims don’t match the actual ingredients.
Ingredients: prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil*, mauritia flexuosa (buriti) fruit oil*, rosa canina (rosehip) fruit extract*, salvia hispanica (chia) seed extract*, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil*, hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn) oil*, calendula officinalis flower*, tocopherol, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, amaranthus caudatus (aaranth) seed extract*, coriandrum sativum (coriander) fruit extract, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil*, daucus carota sativa (carrot) root extract*.
Skinceuticals Retinol Formula
- This one was also a contender for Good Stuff due to its clean ingredient list, and that it comes in several different concentrations of microencapsulated retinol.
- However, after speaking to one of their reps, Dr. Hopkins received a follow-up email that didn’t actually address his questions about their microencapsulation formulation– they just repeated the same marketing jargon from their website.
Ingredients: Aqua / Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Kojic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Aqua / Water / Eau, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Alcohol Denat., Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Retinol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Citrate, Boswellia Serrata Gum, Polysorbate 80, Bht, Dimethiconol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Bisabolol, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Propyl Gallate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta
SkinMedica Retinol Complex
- This comes in a range of concentrations from 0.25%-1.0% as encapsulated retinol.
- The ingredient list is clean enough for an Okay rating, but the Phytoshield™ microencapsulation technology is proprietary and the only information we were able to obtain is that it’s biodegradable and comprised of both organic and synthetic compounds.
- Dr. Hopkins chose to mark this as Sneaky due to transparency issues.
Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycine Soja Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Polyacrylate-13, Squalane, Retinol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Ceramide 3, Bisabolol, Phytosterols, Squalene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oryza Sativa Bran Cera, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Dicaprylyl Ether, Lauryl Alcohol, Polyisobutene, Dextran, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
Sunday Riley High Dose Retinoid Serum
- Contains most of the “not ideal” ingredients mentioned above.
- Would have been Okay Stuff except that their retinol blend includes proprietary retinol esters, which the company is not willing to disclose.
Ingredients: Aqua / Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Kojic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Aqua / Water / Eau, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Alcohol Denat., Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Retinol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Citrate, Boswellia Serrata Gum, Polysorbate 80, Bht, Dimethiconol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Bisabolol, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Propyl Gallate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta
Tata Harper Retinoic Face Oil
- This is a safe formulation, but it is falsely advertised as “retinoic” when it contains no retinoids.
- Transparency is one of Gimme’s most important values, and we never recommend brands where the label’s claims don’t match the actual ingredients.
Ingredients: Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil*, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium (Neroli) Oil, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Oil, Arnica Montana (Arnica) Extract*, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Leaf Extract*, Boswellia Carterii Oil*, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract*, Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Oil*, Citrus Aurantium (Bergamot) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract*, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Oil*, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil, Tilia Europaea (Linden) Leaf and Flower Extract*, Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Farnesol, Benzyl Benzoate, Eugenol, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Isoeugenol
Versed Gentle Retinol Serum
- There is nothing toxic about this formula, but it contains far too small an amount of retinol (.003%) to be advertised as such .
Ingredients: WaterHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerRetinolBakuchiolCrithmum Maritimum ExtractGlycerinPaeonia Suffruticosa ExtractButyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterHydroxypropyl CyclodextrinSodium HyaluronateCarica Papaya ExtractXylitylglucosideAnhydroxylitolXylitolHippophae Rhamnoides OilTocopheryl AcetateOpuntia Conccinellifera Fruit ExtractRosa Canina Seed OilChamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceChlorophyllCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideHydrogenated Vegetable OilNylon-12IsohexadecanePolysorbate 80TrehaloseLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltratePhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerin
Retinol FAQ
How do retinoids actually work?
Retinoids work by penetrating the skin and speeding up the process of cellular turnover. They help shed old, damaged cells and replace them with fresh, healthy skin cells. Over time, this process can:
- Smooth the skin. By increasing cell turnover, retinoids help reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve skin texture.
- Boost collagen production. Retinoids stimulate the production of collagen, a protein that provides structure and firmness to the skin.
- Fade dark spots. Retinoids encourage the shedding of pigmented skin cells, helping to fade hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
- Offer antioxidant protection. Retinoids neutralize free radicals, protecting the skin from environmental damage.
What retinol do dermatologists recommend?
If you ask a dermatologist what the best natural retinol serum is, they may recommend a prescription product, so let’s talk about those.
Retin-A Cream (tretinoin) comes in a range of concentrations from 0.025% to 0.1% The only ingredient we don’t love is BHT–otherwise it’s actually pretty clean!
Tazarotene Topical Cream is a synthetic retinoid that’s less likely to irritate sensitive skin as compared to tretinoin. Again, BHT is the most concerning ingredient here.
What concentration of retinol is effective?
This depends on what kind of retinoid your product contains. For retinol you want between 0.25% and 1%. If you’re using retinoic acid, it needs to be about ten times less–from 0.025% and 0.1%.
Are retinoids bad for the environment?
Natural retinoids are, for the most part, biodegradeable, as long as they are disposed of properly. Synthetic retinoids come with potential environmental concerns similar to other pharmaceuticals.
How should you use retinol?
While retinoids are powerful, they can also cause skin irritation, especially when first introduced into your skincare routine. Here are some tips to get the most out of your retinoid product:
- Start slowly. Introduce retinoids gradually, starting with a lower concentration or using the product every other night until your skin builds tolerance.
- Nighttime use only. Retinoids break down in sunlight and can increase sun sensitivity, so they should only be applied at night. Be sure to use sunscreen during the day for extra protection.
- Moisturize. To reduce dryness and irritation, apply a moisturizer after using a retinoid product.
- Avoid certain ingredients: Retinoids should not be used in combination with certain other active ingredients, like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or vitamin C, unless the formulation specifically accounts for this.
Does retinol work for all skin types?
While people of all skin types and shades can benefit from retinoids, those with darker skin need to be especially vigilant about whether a product is causing irritation. In darker skin tones, this can trigger hyperpigmentation spots. If you have acne-prone skin, adapalene (a synthetic retinoid) is notable because of its powerful ability to treat acne, while being less irritating than retinoic acid.
What’s the difference between retinol and retinoid?
Retinol is a specific type of retinoid, derived from Vitamin A. Retinoids refer to the broader category that includes all Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, retinoic acid (tretinoin), and other prescription-strength forms.
Other Effective Anti-Aging Tools
Retinol is not the only class of products that are effective in improving skin. Here are eight other at-home, over-the-counter, science-backed anti-aging Good Stuff:
- Vitamin C serum. One to try: Marie Veronique Vitamin C+E+Ferulic Serum.
- Peptides. One to try: Crunchi Goldenlight Multi-Peptide Serum.
- AHAs. One to try: The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution.
- Microcurrent devices. One to try: Foreo Bear.
- Red light mask. One to try: RedDot Therapy Mask.
- Collagen powder. One to try: Needed Collagen Protein.
- Fish oil: One to try: Needed Women’s Omega-3.
- Sunscreen to prevent damage. One to try: Crunchi Sunlight Facial SPF 30.
We hope this guide has made finding the best natural retinol serum less overwhelming. Please comment below if there is a brand you’d like us to add to this guide!
Stay sane,
Maia, Founder & CEO
Selected Sources
- Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. doi:10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
- Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007;143(5):606-612. doi:10.1001/archderm.143.5.606
- Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2000;114(3):480-486. doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00901.
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